Let the good times roll! In New Orleans, that would be Mardi Gras, a citywide carnival celebration that spans three riotous months beginning on the 12th night, Jan. 6, and culminating with Mardi Gras (or “Fat Tuesday”) on March 4. It’s all about music, parades, floats, food, drink and wild excitement. It’s estimated that more than a million people, locals and visitors, fill the streets during Mardi Gras. All across the city is revelry, with parades day and night. Beads of purple, green and gold—colors representing justice, faith and power—are tossed to spectators and party-goers.
The deadly violence on New Year’s Day rocked Bourbon Street and the local community, but New Orleans is a hardy city, in some ways still recovering from Hurricane Katrina. Mardi Gras is the highlight of the year—a tradition with religious roots; indeed, Catholic iconography—that the city is determined to observe. Domestic terrorism is not going to deter a time-honored institution that historically has involved all residents to some effect, including those in the Jewish community.
Alan Smason, editor of the Crescent City Jewish News who was born and bred in New Orleans, notes the proximity between Mardi Gras festivities and the Jewish holiday of Purim. Even the colors associated with the holidays harken to royalty, including that of Queen Esther in Persia.
Mardi Gras is the last day of carnival season. It’s also the last night of eating rich, fatty foods in preparation for fasting associated with Lent, which counts up to Easter.
“It’s not just one day; it’s a month of celebration,” says Smason. Local Jews not only enjoy the parades and marching bands that are a common denominator of the festivities but often participate in them. And they definitely go with their families to watch them and take advantage of all the city has to offer during this time.
Smason points out that the event is known for its tight security with police and Homeland Security officers on the streets, where visitors and locals throng the French Quarter. New Orleans was also the site of the Super Bowl 2025 at the Caesars Superdome on Feb. 9, which went off without a hitch.
Todd Schwartz is an innkeeper and “prison warden,” with his brother Nick, at the Inn at the Old Jail, once the destination of criminals and vagrants. The Queen Anne Victorian building has been impeccably restored by the Schwartz brothers to a boutique guesthouse. Located in the Tremé section of the city, it sits within walking distance of cafes, soul food restaurants and jazz clubs. In a 12th-night conversation, Schwartz declares the city to be “all set to celebrate. Locals are out in droves with parades, music, throwing out beads—nothing has changed.” As for the inn, he mentions that there have been no cancellations.
New Orleans is one of the best foodie cities in America. The beignets and chicory coffee pouring out of Café Du Monde are a tourist tradition, and have kosher certification. Dishes throughout the area represent a combination of French, Spanish, Cajun and African (think gumbo). Although the city is famous for seafood not eaten by kashrut observant Jews, most restaurants offer vegetarian options.
The recipes below are easily cooked up in the kosher kitchen. Dirty Rice may be prepared using chicken livers; and Creamiest Grits is a comfort dairy dish similar to what’s offered at Tujague’s, a restaurant that goes back to my honeymoon days. Steelhead trout gives the Chartres Street recipe a mild, delicate texture, perfect to show off the zesty sauce.
As for King Cake, dozens of recipes are out there. It’s a Mardi Gras tradition going back to the Middle Ages, originally made to celebrate the Catholic Epiphany also known as Three Kings Day. The version below starts with Gesundheit Kuchen (“Blessing Cake”), a treasured Hofman family recipe. Super easy, the result is a delicate pound cake, slathered with creamy frosting and dusted with the traditional purple, green and gold sugar sprinkles. The cake is sold in practically every store and restaurant during the festivities, topped with a small porcelain baby (representing Jesus) inserted into the baked cake—a way for Louisiana residents to celebrate their Christian faith. Non-Christians can enjoy the dessert without the topper.
The recipe for Shortcut Café Brûlot comes from Jessica Harris, an African-American award-winning cookbook author and culinary historian. Instead of the flamboyant drink served tableside, Harris has streamlined the drink to be easily prepared and served at home.
A fairly new addition to the city is the Museum of the Southern Jewish Experience, which shows a different kind of flavor—how the Jews of the American South have blended, added to and taken away elements in and from the areas they have lived. Mardi Gras hours can be found here.
If you can’t be in New Orleans, then bring Mardi Gras home with any of the recipes below.
Dirty Rice (Meat)
Serves 6
Cook’s Tip:
*Substitute chicken livers for ground beef.
*Kosher Cajun Seasoning is available from Pereg online.
Ingredients:
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 pound lean ground beef, crumbled
1 medium onion, chopped
1 cup celery, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons bottled chopped garlic
2 teaspoons Cajun Seasoning
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1½ cups white rice, uncooked
3½ cups beef broth
2 to 3 tablespoons bottled diced pimento, drained
sliced green onion to garnish (optional)
Directions:
In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat the oil and the ground beef over medium heat. Cook the meat, stirring for 5 minutes or until no pink remains.
Add the onion, celery, garlic, Cajun Seasoning and salt. Stir to mix.
Add the rice and beef broth. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring often. Reduce heat.
Cover and simmer for 25 minutes longer or until rice is cooked.
Stir in the pimento. Transfer to a serving dish. Garnish with green onion.
Serve hot.
Creamiest Grits (Dairy)
Serves 4-6
Cook’s Tip:
*Grits are coarsely ground corn (hominy). They can be cooked with water or milk. This dish is made richer by using heavy or light cream.
*For cheesy grits, stir a half-cup of grated cheese, such as cheddar or Parmesan, into the hot grits.
Ingredients:
3 cups water (or milk)
1 cup heavy or light cream
4 tablespoons butter
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup grits (not instant grits)
1 tablespoon plain yogurt
Directions:
In a medium pot, bring the water, cream, margarine and salt to a boil.
Gradually pour in the grits, whisking constantly.
Reduce the heat to medium-low. Stir constantly until the grits are tender and creamy, 20 to 25 minutes.
Stir in the yogurt to blend. Pour into bowls.
Serve hot.
Chartres Street Trout (Pareve)
Serves 4-6
Cook’s Tips:
*Salmon is a good substitute for steelhead trout.
*For those who mix dairy and fish, substitute the margarine for butter.
Ingredients:
2½ to 3 pounds steelhead trout, cut into 6 to 8 pieces
1 stick (4 ounces) margarine, cut into 8 pieces
4 to 5 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (juice of 2 large lemons)
½ teaspoon hot sauce
½ cup large capers
salt and freshly ground pepper
bread of choice for toasted wedges
Directions:
Preheat oven to 415 degrees.
Spray a baking dish with nonstick baking spray.
Place the trout in a prepared baking dish. Dot it with the margarine. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper.
Cover loosely with foil. Bake in preheated oven 15 to 20 minutes or until fish flakes easily. Place in a serving dish and keep warm.
Add the lemon juice and hot sauce to the liquids left in the baking dish. Stir in the capers. Pour over the trout.
Serve hot with wedges of toasted bread spread with margarine.
Kings Cake or ‘Mardi Gras’ Cake (Dairy)
Serves 12-15
Cook’s Tips:
*Colored sugar for dusting is available in the supermarket baking section.
*Add the milk gradually, a teaspoon at a time, until the mixture is softly spreadable.
Ingredients:
1 stick (4 ounces) butter, softened
8 ounces cream cheese
2 rounded tablespoons of sour cream or plain yogurt
1½ cups sugar
4 eggs
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Porcelain baby (optional)
Frosting:
1½ cups confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons butter, melted
3 to 4 tablespoons of milk
green, purple and yellow sanded sugar
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Spray a 10-inch Bundt pan with nonstick baking spray.
In a large bowl, beat the butter, cream cheese, sour cream or yogurt, and the sugar until pale and fluffy.
Add eggs, one at a time with a half-cup of flour. Add the baking powder and vanilla with the last half-cup of flour, beating well after each addition. Spoon the batter into the prepared Bundt pan.
Bake in a preheated oven for 55 to 60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool on a wire tray.
For the frosting: Measure the confectioners’ sugar in a medium bowl. Make a well in the center and pour in the butter, plus 3 tablespoons of milk. Stir to mix. The mixture should be soft but not runny. Spread over the top of the cooled cake. Sprinkle with sections of green-, purple- and gold-colored sugar. Cut into wedges to serve.
Jessica Harris’s Shortcut Café Brûlot (Pareve)
Serves 4
Cook’s Tips:
*Substitute Sabra for Cointreau or Grand Marnier.
*Jessica B. Harris is an American culinary historian, college professor, cookbook author and journalist.
Ingredients:
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon fresh orange juice
1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick
4 whole cloves
¾ cup (6 ounces) orange liqueur such as Grand Marnier, Cointreau or Triple Sec
¼ cup (2 ounces) cognac
4 cups brewed strong coffee, hot
Directions:
Stir together the lemon juice, orange juice, cinnamon stick and cloves in a large heatproof bowl until combined. Set aside.
Heat the orange liqueur and cognac in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 2 minutes.
Add the cognac mixture to the lemon juice mixture in a bowl.
Stir in hot coffee. Serve immediately.
Ethel G. Hofman is a widely syndicated American Jewish food and travel columnist, author and culinary consultant.